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Vitamin C

WHAT MAKES VITAMIN C SO IMPORTANT IN SKIN CARE?

Let's talk about the most powerful antioxidant we know: vitamin C. It protects against harmful free radicals by neutralizing them, which in turn helps to reduce visible signs of aging such as fine lines, wrinkles, dark spots after sun damage and loss of ability to retain moisture. But the most notable benefit of vitamin C is its ability to brighten the face and reduce hyperpigmentation. It makes the skin smooth and gives you a radiant glow.

Vitamin C exists in several different forms, of which ascorbic acid is the most potent and most researched, but is however very unstable and easily oxidizes when in contact with air and sunlight. It therefore works best in combination with vitamin E, ferulic acid, vitamin B and hyaluronic acid. Vitamin E, C and ferulic acid are antioxidants and will therefore help to stabilize each other.

We therefore recommend that you use vitamin C serum under the sunscreen that is applied 15-30 minutes before you go out in the sun. Apply generously to the skin as the last step of your skin care routine every morning. Repeat application throughout the day for continuous protection.

You can use vitamin C serum as:

Anua - Green Lemon Vitamin C containing 560,000 ppm green citrus extract with 200,000 ppm vitamin C

Cosrx The Vitamin C 23 Serum 20ml - which contains a full 23% ascorbic acid and vitamin E, which are powerful antioxidants that protect, even out skin tone and structure, and counteract signs of ageing.

Or the one with a slightly lower concentration for a soft start with this active ingredient: Cosrx The Vitamin C 13 Serum 20ml Neogen

Dermalogy Real Vita C Serum is an effective vitamin C serum rich in antioxidants with niacinamide and 22% of sodium ascorbyl phosphate - stabilized source of vitamin C - together with extracts from citrus fruits and vitamin E and vitamin B5.

GET STARTED WITH VITAMIN CI IN YOUR SKIN CARE ROUTINE

Finding the right concentration and type of vitamin C for your skin type is critical to how effectively vitamin C works for you. Start with a serum with a low concentration of 10% and gradually increase to 15% or 20% for gradual adaptation. Feel free to start with 2-3 days a week and increase gradually.

For oily or normal skin, L-ascorbic acid is the most potent form of vitamin C and may be most beneficial.

For dry and sensitive skin, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or sodium ascorbyl phosphate is a milder solution.

For dry, mature skin, moisturizing products containing fat-soluble forms of vitamin C, such as ascorbyl palmitate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, are suitable.

Ascorbic acid is the strongest and most unstable form of vitamin C and oxidizes very easily in contact with light and air. Other more stable forms of vitamin C that don't oxidize as easily and are suitable for dry and sensitive skin include:

  • magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
  • sodium ascorbyl phosphate
  • ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
  • tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate

    • Vitamin C combined with other acids can be extremely harsh on the skin as these are low pH ingredients, meaning they are acidic and should be used with caution. Vitamin C can be used in combination with most products, but one ingredient you should avoid when using vitamin C is benzoyl peroxide, which can oxidize the vitamin and thus neutralize its effect. You can still use your benzoyl peroxide products, just not at the same time. Try using vitamin C in the morning and benzoyl peroxide in the evening, or use them on different days.

    STORAGE

    Vitamin C is sensitive to air, light and heat. When exposed to these factors, it oxidizes to dehydroascorbic acid, which is less stable and less effective. Therefore, these products should be stored in dark containers that are either airtight or airtight. Fortunately, many vitamin C products already come in dark and tight packaging. We also recommend storing the products in a dark and cool place for longer shelf life.

    PH VALUE

    The absorption of vitamin C is largely dependent on the pH level. If you have normal skin, look for products with a low pH of around 3.5 for optimal absorption. If you have sensitive skin, you should use a formula with a pH value of 5 to 6 as this is the skin's natural pH and will not be as irritating.

    REMEMBER SOLAR FACTOR

    Unlike hydroxy acids (AHA) or retinol, vitamin C does not make the skin more vulnerable to sunburn. That said, the most potent forms of vitamin C are vulnerable to light exposure, so vitamin C serums must be used under broad spectrum UVA/UVB protection. The good news is that vitamin C further protects the skin when applied under sunscreen with at least SPF 30.

    Clinical studies have shown that vitamin C reduces the number of "sun-sensitive cells" in the skin by 40-60% and reduces UV damage to genetic material (DNA) by 62%. Vitamin C is also anti-inflammatory and reduces irritation and inflammation in the skin. The vitamin is also an important factor in the formation of collagen and strengthens the barrier mechanisms that protect the skin.

    Pamper your skin a little extra with masks rich in antioxidants, such as:

    FUN FACT

    The oxidation breaks down the vitamin in several stages, including into erythrulose, which is one of the components often used in sunless tanning creams along with the more common ingredient dihydroxyacetone (DHA). These ingredients react with proteins in the dead stratum corneum layer of the skin and produce brown compounds called melanoidins, which remain on the skin until the dead cells are shed (after about a week). The reaction is a Maillard reaction, similar to the one that causes meat and baked goods to brown from heat.

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